Organic and if need be radical
For many years, Alsace has had a stable vineyard surface, where yields vary only according to vintage conditions. Climate change is favouring the region with more and more hours of sunshine. This leaves little chance for powdery mildew (oidium), which allows organic wine growers in particular to sleep peacefully.
In the favourable, dry climate, around one in seven winegrowers works without conventional sprays, many of them organic. “Bio”, as the French abbreviate it, has long been socially acceptable here. Rémy Gresser, president of the winegrowers association, works organically and finds himself in good company with big names like Zind-Humbrecht, Deiss, Frick, Kreydenweiss and Weinbach.
Few regions have so many years of experience with the science and connection between soil biology and wine quality. Working methods such as making wine without any added sulphur have long been practised by winemakers. Biodynamic producer Stéphane Bannwarth matures his wines in Georgian qvevris, as he feels it is the logical extension from biodynamics to totally non-interventionist winemaking. The idea of ??environmental protection is deeply rooted here. A trial with genetically modified vines in 2010 caused so much anger that activists devastated the area.
Satisfied family businesses, good cooperatives, generous grand cru locations
From the northern end near Strasbourg to the southern border near Mulhouse, the region measures one hundred kilometres, adding up to 15,621 hectares of cultivated land over a maximum width of three kilometres. Less than half of the 3,908 winegrowers own more than two hectares.
In Alsace, wineries with good locations often remain family-owned for generations. Dopff-Au-Moulin was founded in 1574 and is one of the oldest wineries in the world. Nevertheless, wine cooperatives account for 43 percent of the sales, turning in reliable results and managing some valued grands crus.